Leonor Greyl

We meet David Thomas Brooks in the Parisian salon of haircare brand Leonor Greyl. Not only is he the founder's son-in-law, but as a biologist he is also responsible for product development. The latest launch promises great things...

Your new product range is aimed at making thin hair a thing of the past. Where did your inspiration come from?

My father-in-law, Jean-Marie Greyl, already chose plants like ginseng 40 years ago because of their invigorating and circulatory properties. Over the years, I observed new raw materials emerging in the market. Everything evolved, and today we understand why hair loss occurs and how to treat it. Additionally, my wife, Caroline Greyl, noticed growing concerns among her clients regarding thinning hair and hair loss, prompting her to ask me to develop a highly concentrated treatment. It was a process that took around 7 years.

Wow, that's quite a long time...

It took time to find the perfect raw materials. And then, finding the ideal blend takes even longer. Since we develop and test our products ourselves, there were no time constraints. Other brands go to external laboratories, have time limits, and aim to rush a product to market, perhaps because of a magical new ingredient. On the contrary, we take our time until we are 100% sure that the product is ready.

Hair loss seems to be a widespread issue that has absolutely nothing to do with aging anymore...?

Recently, due to the launch, I've spoken with many journalists in Spain, France, and the United States, and I'm surprised that so many young people suffer from hair loss. Most of the women I met had their hair tied up in a bun.

What are the causes, and what actually happens in the body with hair loss?

There are countless causes of hair loss: stress, unhealthy diet, hormones, smoking, environmental pollution. The air quality in cities has dramatically worsened, and genetic factors also play a role. Over time, the productivity of hair follicle cells decreases, often due to an excess of the DHT hormone, which can lead to hair loss. Our products aim to specifically combat this hormone to promote scalp microcirculation and increase the production of stem cells for healthy hair growth. We're not just aiming for a solution for a specific case but a solution for all.

That sounds like a dream scenario...

What I've learned from my father-in-law is that you have to be a very good "cook" and know, touch, and feel the ingredients. Similar to when I make a tomato salad, I need to know which tomatoes are good and which ones are bad. And I can only do that by tasting and working with them.

But tomatoes aren't found in your new series?

No (laughs). The formula combines Indian gooseberry, green tea, and maca extract. These are natural ingredients, mainly plant extracts plus plant proteins, because they repair the hair and add shine.

Besides Leonor Greyl products, what advice did you give to the journalists with buns?

My first question was: Do you use silicones? Most of them nodded hesitantly. Silicones are indeed one of the main reasons for hair loss because they suffocate the scalp and hair and are not easily washed out. The initial applications may give you great hair, but three months later, it becomes flat, heavy, dull, and brittle.

You mentioned at the beginning that you personally test all products. Is that a family event or how can one imagine it?

Leonor Greyl, my mother-in-law and founder of the brand, is now 92 years old and tests every product. For example, she loves the new shampoo. When she tells me, "Tom, the product is fabulous, don't touch anything anymore," I'm on cloud nine. However, recently I gave her a product I'm currently working on, which she threw in the trash right in front of my eyes. She can be a tough critic. But that's good.

Now we're naturally curious about what you're currently working on... Any sneak peek?

I'm afraid I have to disappoint you; it's still a prototype.

Does that mean we have to wait another 7 years until the launch?

No, don't worry, it will be ready and approved by Leonor by 2025.

 During a visit to the brand's Parisian salon, our colleague naturally couldn't resist testing out the Hair Spa Treatment:

"The custom Hairspa treatments from Leonor Greyl are designed to provide spectacular shine and vitality. While I'm generally satisfied with my hair texture, I do wish for more shine and hydration. The treatment begins with a thorough hair and scalp diagnosis using a micro-camera, which helps the experts at the salon formulate a personalized blend of natural ingredients for me. My scalp seems fine, but my hair could definitely use some more moisture.

Into the mixture, freshly prepared before my eyes, go active ingredients like Ginseng (known for its stimulating properties), oils, and other plant extracts, all aimed at reviving my mane. The paste is then carefully applied with a flat brush - section by section. My head looks a bit like it's been plastered, and I wonder how this texture will wash out...

To stimulate the microcirculation of the scalp, suction cups are then used, which feels a bit like cupping therapy - but quite pleasant. Next comes a steam helmet over my head, which uses water vapor to facilitate faster and deeper penetration of the active ingredients, helping improve hair quality from the inside out. After about 20 minutes of processing time (including a delightful little head and neck massage), it's time for the finale: everything is rinsed off (which goes smoother than I expected), and my hair is combed, blow-dried with a round brush, and styled.

The result? Overwhelming! My hair has never looked so good, fresh, and healthy. They feel extremely light yet so voluminous, shining from root to tip - and even my blonde highlights look rejuvenated. Perfect for bridging the gap until my next hair appointment and letting my hair shine in its newfound glory. Anyone in Paris - or any other city where there are Leonor Greyl salons - should not miss out on this experience."